Almost every woman uses moisturizers daily, mostly because the skin feels dry. There is so much advertising on moisturizers that we get the impression it is compulsory for skin care.
Superficial effectMoisturizers have the function of drawing moisture into the skin and sealing the surface. This is achieved with hydrophils (Humectants) that bind water and hold it on the skin: for example glycerin, hyaluronic acid or urea (uric acid). Emollients are softening agents such as coconut oil. They are oily substances that close and smooth the skin surface.
External Artificial moisture Moisturized corneal layers look less wrinkled and feel calmed. However this effect is external and short term, the wrinkles are not less deep because of this. Only the dead part of the skin, the corneal layer, is smoothed. Such external, artificial moisturizing inhibits the skin’s own moisturizing, causing the skin to become dryer and a dependence on artificial moisturizers results. Anyone who uses lip-balm frequently is probably familiar with the drying effect and dependence. Long-term there is a decrease in skin vitality. How can such skin deterioration be explained with refular use of moisturizers?
The Zein Obagi explanatory model We prefer Zein Obagi’s explanatory model since this anti-aging doctor from Beverly Hills achieved unparalleled treatment success with his method. According to Dr. Obagi moisturizing creams, among other things, disrupt the epidermal exfoliation. Dead skin cells collect on the skin surface and clog the pores. Worse still, if the skin is moisturized artificially, it no longer moisturizes naturally. The skin reduces or stops the production of Vital Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs). Thus, the skin’s own NMFs from amino acids, urea and lactic acid, which contribute to a healthy skin barrier are missing. Furthermore less Glycosaminoglycanes (GAGs) are produced, the sponge-like structures in which the skin stores water. What happens? Long-term the skin becomes dryer, coarse-grained, large-pored, splotchy and redder. The slowed down skin cycle and the inert cells cause the skin to become thinner and more wrinkled.
Moisturizing Creams only when needed Only about 15% of the people are inclined to have dry skin according to Obagi. For them moisturizers are appropriate. For all others: moisturizers should be thought of as a dessert and by no means for daily use, otherwise they do more harm than good. This means moisturizers should be used only when needed, when the skin was exceptionally stressed.
Moisturizing creams with active ingredients Instead of moisturizers, Vitamin A serums should be applied. Vitamin A resp. Retinol helps to activate the cells. Thus the collagen production is promoted, the skin thickens and light damage is decreased. The dry feeling disappears because the moisture comes from the cells and the skin barrier is intact. Instead of plastering moisturizer onto the corneal layer the cells are diligently activated.
Oil be gone and Retinol The dermatologist is convinced that oils, even the skin’s own sebum, harm the skin in the long-run and that inflammatory reactions can occur. He also assumes that there is a connection with the appearance of late onset acne in adults and Rosacea, an inflammatory skin disease.
The mere implementation of a cleansing regime usually leads to significant skin improvement. The almost immediate, structural improvement resulting from Wash, Scrub und Oil Control" proves him right.